Pearl value points

Cultured pearls are so greatly influenced by the forces of nature that they are found in a variety of qualities. A pearl’s value is determined by 3 characteristics:

1) Mass

            a) Size

            b) Thickness and quality of nacre coating

2) Rarity

            a) Size

            b) Smoothness of surface

            c) Shape

3) Aestetic

            a) Colour

            b) Lustre

1) Mass

Two elements are important here: the size of the pearl, and the thickness of its nacre coating.
 

a) Size

Japanese cultured pearls range in size from approximately 2mm to 10mm in diameter. Those larger than 8.5 mm in diameter are considered rare and their value increases tremendously. This does not mean that smaller pearls aren’t popular and valued - on the contrary. Very small pearls are often worn as twisted chokers, and medium sized pearls (between 5.5 - 7.5mm) are favoured for their classic simplicity.
 

b) The thickness and quality of the nacre coating

The thickness of the nacre layers around the nucleus of the pearl determines the luster of the pearl. The most important value point in pearls of equal size is lustre, because that is which what gives a pearl its beauty. A pearl can be perfectly round, pure and clear in colour, and silky smooth with no blemishes. Yet if it is lustreless, its value decreases. On the other hand, a lustrous pearl of irregular shape can have great value. When judging lustre, look at the shadow area of a pearl, not the reflective highlight area. Do not confuse surface shine with the deep seated glow that is lustre.

2) Rarity

Three things make a pearl rare: its size, smoothness of the surface and its shape.
 

a) Size

Because of the many years it takes to produce a large pearl with its resultant threat to the life of the oyster and the possibility of rejection at any time during the growth of the pearl, pearls of  9mm diameter and over, are becoming increasingly rare. If, in addition to size, the pearl possesses other attributes of quality, its value is enhanced even further.
 

b) Smoothness of the surface

Pearls invariably have small markings on their surfaces. As long as these markings don’t detract from the overall appearance of the pearl and its lustre, they don’t necessarily detract from its value. However, the smoother the surface, the more rare, and thus the more valuable the pearl will be.
 

c) Shape

The four most common shapes of pearls are:
 

i) Perfectly round- This shape is extremely rare, adding to its price and value.
 

ii) Semi-Round- At first glance, these pearls appear to be round. But by looking at them closely, you will see that they are not so. Many people prefer this shape as it has a certain charm and naturalness to it.
 

iii) Semi-Barouque- This shape is more common and readily found than the semi-round shape, so it is often available at lower prices. A semi-baroque pearl is clearly not a round pearl, yet possesses an attractiveness all of its own.
 

iv) Baroque- These pearls have very definite protrusions of nacre. Their charm results from the uniqueness of the shape of each pearl.

3) Aestetic Appeal

a) Colour

If you look at a pearl closely, you will see that several colours can be perceived to make up its total appearance. Pearls come in an almost infinite variety of hues and shades ranging from pink to gold through green, blue and silver. The colour of a pearl is a personal choice - and it in no way affects the real inherent value of the pearl. The most important colour for any woman is the one that flatters her most. Rosé tones compliment a fair complexion, while woman with darker tones prefer creamy pearls.
 

b) Lustre

One of the most important element when determininga pearl’s value is its lustre. Lustre is not a shiny surface, but a deep glow created by the refractive properties of the pearl’s many crystalline nacre coatings. If a pearl has high lustre, it does not necessarily mean that it is a high quality pearl, as it is possible for a thinly coated pearl to have a high lustre too. Lustre has to accompany other properties to make the pearl truly valuable.